Welcome back, everyone. In today's post, we're diving into the challenges and triumphs of building an A-frame porch. It's been a bit of a journey, encountering unexpected discrepancies in the Menards plans and making adjustments along the way. Despite the hurdles, we're confident that the end result will be a stunning porch, albeit with a bit of extra time invested. Anytime you are doing a project, especially by yourself, you may encounter set backs. You just have to stay persistent and trust the process.
The first step is to get everything framed up. We successfully framed the windows and blocked them. Once they are framed we can move onto our front porch. However when we started on the front porch, the laser level revealed some disparities in measurements, prompting us to recalibrate our approach. The front porch involves a post-and-beam structure, and we're currently working on aligning the cedar posts, making sure they sit perfectly within the designated parameters. When framing anything, I prefer to get everything cut and layed out and then start to get it installed. I do this so that I don’t have to run back and forth and do all sorts of jobs at once.
The cedar posts are being carefully positioned, with meticulous adjustments to ensure they align seamlessly. Bracing is crucial, especially in the face of changing weather conditions. The effort can come with challenges, but precision is key.
Transitioning to the cedar headers, we're cutting and fitting them to meet our design specifications. The cedar beam installation involves attention to detail, accounting for any irregularities in the wood. It's a meticulous process, ensuring that the final outcome is both aesthetically pleasing and structurally sound.
Moving on to the cedar A-frame, we encounter some unexpected discrepancies in the plans. However, we take a hands-on approach, creating a template to rectify the height issues. This adaptive strategy, while time-consuming, ensures a perfect fit for the cedar A-frame. It ended up working out just fine, although it did add some time to the project.
As we progress, the installation of purlins becomes a critical step. Balancing the dimensions and ensuring a flush fit is essential for the overall stability of the structure. Challenges arise, but with careful measurements and bracing against the wind, we overcome them.
The project took an unexpected turn as we realized the need for additional adjustments in the A-frame design. This prompts us to create a template. I decided to use a 2 x 6 purlin that would be dropped on our valley truss and go over the top of our cedar A-frame. This on-the-fly problem-solving demonstrates that even seasoned builders encounter challenges that require creative solutions.
Alright, let's continue building the frame all the way down to align with the 6x6 cedar header. To achieve this, I'm using a purlin to measure down from the top to a specific point. Once I have that measurement, I'll use it to construct blocking, providing a surface to attach my purlins. Additionally, I'll need to include blocking underneath for attaching trims.
Given that we're working with an 8:12 pitch, one side needs to be cut at 8:12. Using my speed square, which indicates that 8:12 is 33.75 degrees, I'll subtract this from 90 degrees to find the complementary angle, which is 56.25 degrees. By blocking on both sides up to that point, we can proceed to complete the purlins all the way down and then extend the rafters.
Now, when it comes to the hangers, I'm using 2x6 or 2x8 hangers. I'll align the top of my board with the hanger, keep one side of the bracket tight, and secure it with nails. After nailing the top, I'll readjust and nail the other side. This process ensures a secure fit for the board.
We've successfully added the last two purlins to the A-frame. Moving on to the rafters, we'll install ceiling joists using 2x6 boards. Additionally, I've decided to include a 2x12, even though it wasn't in the original plans. This will provide extra support as the A-frame extends beyond the crust tail. To further solidify the structure, we'll create a stub column attached to the 2x12 skirt. This approach will enhance the overall stability, especially for the end rafters.
Now, regarding the ceiling joists and rafters, I just realized I need to add 10.5 inches for the overhang. I'll need to recut the boards accordingly to ensure the proper dimensions. We've got our measurements for the rafter, and we're working with two by six ceiling joists. The plan is for this rafter to extend from the post, come down, and connect with the top of the 2x6. Since we're dealing with a 3:12 roof pitch, I'll cut a 3:12 angle up there.
The measured length is 107 and 7/8. Looking at the square, a 3:12 pitch translates to 14 degrees. Subtracting that from 90 gives us 76 degrees. This angle needs to be cut for everything to fit properly. Alternatively, you can take it up there and mark a line accordingly.
Now, when we align it, it looks straight and well-positioned. Hook up the string line about the third one over so it runs parallel along the side. This ensures proper alignment. Checking for any bends or irregularities, it seems all good.
Moving on to the end rafter, it should sit flush with the outside truss. We're aligning it correctly, ensuring the right pitch. To secure it, we're using a combination of a little two by six and a two by four. These will be nailed together, and then we'll secure all the rafters' blocking to that, effectively locking everything together.
In response to questions about our choice to orient sheathing vertically on the roof, let's clarify the reasoning. In conventional stick-frame houses, where trusses are two feet on center, sheathing is laid horizontally. However, in post-frame buildings with two-foot-on-center purlins, the orientation changes, and we opt for vertical sheathing. The decision to run the sheathing vertically is rooted in the structural dynamics of post-frame construction. By aligning it in this direction, we effectively connect to five different purlins, significantly increasing the strength and stability of the overall structure.
That wraps up this post on building an A-frame porch for your structure. While we did encounter some challenges, it's essential to recognize that problem-solving is an integral part of the building process. Even experienced builders have to tackle unforeseen issues. For those interested, check out our Patreon. We have an active build group where we discuss various topics each month. You can submit questions, and we provide detailed answers. It's a fantastic community worth exploring. Thank you for your support and we hope you found this post helpful.
Thank you,
MR Post Frame
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